Pakistan holds five of the world's fourteen 8,000 m peaks, and three of them are realistic first 8,000ers. After many seasons of base camps on the Baltoro, this is how we talk climbers through the choice.
Gasherbrum II — the classic first
GII's southwest ridge is the most straightforward 8,000 m route in the country: a reasonable icefall, well-established camps and a summit day that rewards fitness over technical wizardry. It is the peak we recommend most often to strong 7,000 m climbers stepping up.
Broad Peak — the Concordia option
Broad Peak shares its approach and base camp neighbourhood with K2, which means the greatest mountain scenery on Earth from your tent door. The route is long rather than technical, and the final ridge to the true summit catches out those who spend too little time acclimatising.
Nanga Parbat — the serious one
The Kinshofer route on the Diamir face is a bigger undertaking — steeper ground, a more complex mountain, and weather that arrives from a different system than the Karakoram peaks. It suits climbers with previous 8,000 m experience rather than first-timers.
Whichever you choose, our expedition service covers permits, liaison officer, high-altitude porters, base camp and weather forecasting end to end. Talk to us early — permits for the summer season are best arranged the preceding autumn.